How To Measure Old Wood Windows For Replacement

When Maddy Krauss and her hubby, Paul Friedberg, starting time laid eyes on their 1897 Shingle-mode home, they fell in dearest with its handcrafted turn-of-the-century construction, broad front porch, and massive entry-hall staircase. They were also delighted to find that many of the original architectural details were still intact, including wood paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-glass windows, and an ornate cast-bronze fireplace.

The windows were another story. The originals had been swapped out a decade before for low-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the graceful Victorian-era home, This One-time House Television receiver'southward autumn 2007 project in Newton, Massachusetts. The solution: Call in TOH full general contractor Tom Silva and his crew to install free energy-efficient replacements.

Because the existing window frames were sound and foursquare, Tom could utilise insert replacement units—in this instance, Andersen's Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad wood units fitted with free energy-saving, low-eastward insulated glass. These fully assembled, ready-to-install windows slip right into the existing openings.

When the job was done, the house had cute new double-hungs that looked right, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul one more thing to dearest about their old house. Here'due south a look at how Tom fabricated the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows.

How to Install Replacement Windows

1. Window Replacement Parts

Analogy by Robert Hardin

Types of Replacement Windows

Unlike full-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are fabricated to fit into existing window openings. They're available in dozens of standard sizes, from every bit narrow every bit eleven ½ inches to as wide as 68 inches, and come in wood, vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad woods, and aluminum-clad wood.

At that place are three basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and full-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom found on the Newton business firm—requite an former window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, then the sash are slipped in between.

For these to work, the existing window frame must exist level and square. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a fix-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the old side jambs. Considering you're adding new jambs and liners, the drinking glass area will be slightly smaller than information technology was before.

Full-frame replacement windows are like to inserts, except that they take a complete frame that includes head jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the only option when the onetime window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, you must strip the window opening down to its rough framing, inside and out.

2. Measuring for Replacements

Photo by Russell Kaye

The nigh important step in the window-replacement procedure happens long earlier installation mean solar day. Information technology'due south when you measure the dimensions of the existing window frame to brand sure you social club a replacement unit that'due south the right size. Hither's how to do information technology.

• Starting time past measuring the inside width of the quondam window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: across the top, middle, and bottom. Write down the smallest of the three measurements.
• Next, measure the frame's height from the elevation of the sill to the underside of the head jamb in three places: at the left jamb, in the middle, and at the right. Once more, record the smallest measurement.
• Cheque the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The two dimensions should be the same. If the frame is out of square by one/4 inch or so, don't worry; the replacement tin exist shimmed to fit. Annihilation more may crave adjustments to the frame. If the frame is so out of whack that a foursquare replacement wouldn't look right, you'll need a full-frame replacement.
• Finally, use an angle-measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill; some replacements come with a choice of sill angles.

3. Take Out the Sash

Photo past Russell Kaye

• The first pace is to remove the one-time sash from the window frame. In near cases, you'll need to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. (If you're planning to reinstall the stops, do this chore advisedly; they break easily.)
• Next, take out the parting beads to complimentary the upper sash. If your windows, like these, were previously fitted with sash-replacement kits, at that place won't exist any beads. Simply press in on the jamb liners and pull the pinnacle of the sash forward.
• Then pivot ane side of the sash upward to costless information technology from the jamb liners.

four. Pry Off The Jamb Liners

Photograph past Russell Kaye

• If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, use a apartment bar to pry them costless. In the case of an original window, remove any remaining wooden stops from the window frame.
• Get out the interior and exterior casings intact.

5. Prep the Frame

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Scrape off all loose and blistered paint and patch whatever holes or cracks with an exterior-grade wood putty, such equally the ones from Elmer'southward or Minwax.
• Then sand the jambs polish, and prime number and paint the surfaces.

6. Remove the Old Sash Weights

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• If the original sash weights are still in identify, take this opportunity to remove them from their pockets and insulate backside the window frame.
• Unscrew the access panel on each side jamb and pull out the weights.

7. Prep For Insulation

Photograph by Russell Kaye

Tom likes polyurethane foam, because information technology's more than effective at blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

• Make sure to use only depression-force per unit area, minimally expanding foam intended for windows and doors; anything else will bow the frames and go on the sash from working.
• First, pull out whatsoever existing fiberglass in the weight pockets.
• Then diameter 3/8-inch-diameter holes, ane near each cease and one in the center, downward through the sill and up through the caput jamb.

8. Spray in the Cream

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Shoot the expanding foam into the holes until it begins to ooze out. (Tom is using a commercial system, but you can practise the aforementioned job with foam from a can, like Dow's Great Stuff.)
• Also spray foam into the sash-weight pockets in the side jambs. Allow the backlog to harden for at to the lowest degree six hours, then break or cut it off flush earlier replacing the sash-weight pocket panels.

9. Caulk the Opening

Photo by Russell Kaye

• In preparation for installing the window, apply an elastomeric caulk to the exposed inner confront of the exterior casings or to the blind stops on the pinnacle and sides of the frame. Also apply two continuous chaplet of caulk forth the windowsill.

10. Install the Window

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• Working from within the room, set the bottom of the insert replacement onto the sill, then tip it upwardly into the opening. Printing the window tight confronting the exterior casings or blind stops.

11. Spike It Loosely

Photo past Russell Kaye

• Hold the window in place with one two-inch screw driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The screw should exist in just far enough to allow the window to operate.
• Close and lock the sash.

12. Shim equally Necessary

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Adjust the unit of measurement past inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs until it is centered in the infinite and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
• Mensurate the window diagonally from corner to corner; the measurements should be the same. When the window is foursquare, screw information technology in place through the predrilled holes.
• To avoid bowing the frame, slip a shim backside the jamb at each spiral, and so spiral through the shim.
• Trim the shims flush with a utility knife.

thirteen. Caulk, Prime and Paint

Photo past Russell Kaye

• From the outside, measure out the gaps between the window frame and the casing. Fill gaps less than 1/iv inch wide with elastomeric caulk. Anything wider must first be blimp with foam-rubber backer rod.
• On the inside, fill up any gaps around the window with minimally expanding cream.
• Stop up by reinstalling the stops or calculation new ones.
• Then prime and paint, or stain the interior of the window sash and frame.

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Tools

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/windows/21016627/how-to-install-replacement-windows

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